![]() Silhouettes were simpler than in previous seasons, and finishings seemed more crisp. In sharp contrast, Jeremy Scott, a designer who has never shied away from the ostentatious, showed his most austere collection for Moschino to date. Olive drab standard issue sack dresses were anything but standard, and generously cut pantsuits were either cinched at the waist with oversized belts or worn with a single bandeau top in majestic purple or traffic cone orange, signaling a new era of what it means to be sexy. It also helped that the show was held in an expansive industrial hanger, featured a diverse cast of models, and Violet and Friends’s uplifting “Transition” track played on loop. Sure there were a few embroidered slips and mini dresses, worn with sky-towering platform sandals (and socks!), but in place of the usual up-to-there slits and overall ritz, Versace showed a collection that was almost combatant in its restraint. Off-the-shoulder day-to-evening looks, meanwhile, mingled with ruched and gathered slim skirts and blouson tops, but it was a group of color-blocked frocks in a swing of pleats that stole the show.Īfter a season of moonlighting as a Givenchy muse/campaign star, Donatella Versace offered one of the week’s most promising collections. Versace dialed back the va-va-voom for something that was decidedly more accessible. Next came full skirts and ruffles galore, a take on Roman Holiday dressing, but in Giornetti’s skilled hands, the looks never veered into over-the-top territory. These were artfully executed with ties that were left undone and swung with every model’s slight sashay. The pom pom-cum-disco ball style earrings, and new kitten heeled shoes with metallic balls at their toes (a mod nod to ’60s design icon Pierre Cardin), not to mention an updated version of last season’s must-have bag-in-bag combo are surefire street style bait.įor his part, Ferragamo creative director Massimiliano Giornetti offered gallerist-chic separates cut in a trapeze style. ![]() However, this being Prada, the sack suits were enlivened with beatnik prints in strips of honey, marigold, and chocolate, punctuated with primary colored jolts of red and blue geometric shapes. ![]() P showed ’60s style suits that were at once boxy and military sharp in contrasting menswear fabrics, perhaps a subtle salute to her socially and politically rebellious youth. The notion of paring things down a notch or two isn’t an idea typically associated with the Italian style mecca, and surprisingly so, Versace, one Italy’s flashiest flagship brands, led its mother country’s new authoritative message into a new era.Īt Prada, Mrs. The governing theme of the Spring/Summer 2016 collections at Milan Fashion Week might best be described as a study in restraint. ![]()
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